Picture this - There is a waiter clad in all black, standing at a rolling cart. He is swirling a concoction in a large sauté pan set on top of the burner. At the critical moment, he touches a lit match to the liquid and it erupts into dancing blue flames that carry a heady aroma of Cognac into the air.
Is this simply a culinary show-off or does flaming really have a benefit?
Yes, the flambé does serve a real purpose. It caramelizes sugars in desserts, it produces the Mallard reaction in proteins, it browns and crisps foods, and in sauces, culinary tradition states that alcohol is flamed in order to burn off the alcohol and more importantly, reduce its acidity. Is culinary tradition correct?
In recent years, there have been a few tests carried out on the subject. The general consensus is that, in most cases, the actual acidity didn’t change. Just to complicate matters, there is also a difference between the actual acidity and the perceived acidity. Perceived acidity is something that can’t be measured on the pH scale. Take, for example, a spoonful of any vinegar, and taste it. If you then add some honey or sugar, the actual acidity of the vinegar is unchanged, but its perceived acidity will have reduced.
What is Flambé
What exact effect does the flaming process have on wine? A simple test was preformed. Two portions of wine, exactly the same volume, were poured into identical pans of the same size and material. They were placed side by side on the same cook top and brought to a boil at the same time. As soon as the wine in both pans was boiling, one was ignited and they were both allowed to continue to boil until the flames on the lit one had died. The wines were then removed from the heat and allowed to cool.
In a subsequent blind tasting, the results were unanimous: the acidity in the flamed wine was perceived by everyone to be lower. In fact, more than that, the acid in the wine that had not been flamed remained in the mouth for a noticeably longer time.
What about that question of alcohol? Flaming wine does actually reduce the majority of alcohol, at least down to the point at which there is not enough ethyl alcohol remaining to actually burn. If foods are cooked for a long time, as with a soup or stew flavored with wine or brandy, the alcohol will vaporize. When dishes are quickly flamed and served immediately, like Bananas Foster or Cherries Jubilee, there is some alcohol remaining.
What About Flavor
Lets back up a moment. The main reason any alcoholic beverage is used in a recipe is to impart flavor. After all, the finest extracts with the most intense flavors are alcohol-based. Fermentation intensifies and concentrates fruit essence into liqueurs, cordials, brandies and wines. Other foodstuffs are distilled into potent liquors specifically to boggle the senses but still appeal to the palate.
So if you have a special occasion coming up that calls for a bit of drama, turn to one of the French classics finished with a dousing of spirits and a flourish of flames. Flavor may be the key, but to some, presentation goes a long way.
Stuart Stein - Stuart Stein When it comes to regional, market-driven cooking, many chefs talk the talk, but few walk the walk quite as ardently as ...
